Apex Surge

Exactly what to say to your barber

Barber shaping the edge of a client's hair and beard with a razor

Four decisions, the words for each, and a script you can read off your phone.

Most bad haircuts are miscommunication. "A little off the sides" means something different to every barber. Here's the vocabulary that gets you a consistent result.

1. Sides: taper or fade?

2. Clipper guard numbers

Client in a barber chair under warm light
GuardLengthWhat it looks like
#11/8 in (3 mm)Very short, scalp visible
#21/4 in (6 mm)Short, clean
#33/8 in (10 mm)Short but full
#41/2 in (13 mm)Soft and even

"Skin" or "zero" means no guard at all.

3. Top: how much to leave

Say it in inches, not "a little." Rough guide:

Add "point-cut for texture" if you want it to look less blunt.

4. Neckline

Your script

Scissors resting on a comb

"I'd like a [low taper / low fade], [#2] on the sides, [2 inches] on top, point-cut for texture, with a [tapered] neckline."

Fill in the brackets, save it in your notes, and show it with a photo.

Options

  • Classic taper

    Ask your barber for:
    Classic taper, scissor-over-comb on the sides, 2–3 in on top, natural (tapered) neckline
    Upkeep:
    Trim every 4–6 wks
    Cost:
    $
  • Textured crop

    Ask your barber for:
    #1–2 low fade, 1–1.5 in on top, point-cut for texture, blunt or slightly choppy fringe
    Upkeep:
    Trim every 3–4 wks
    Cost:
    $
  • Side part with mid fade

    Ask your barber for:
    Mid fade (#1 or skin), 3 in on top, soft or hard part, combed to the side
    Upkeep:
    Trim every 3–4 wks
    Cost:
    $–$$
  • French crop

    Ask your barber for:
    skin fade blending to a #1–2, short textured top, defined fringe line
    Upkeep:
    Trim every 3–4 wks
    Cost:
    $

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